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7 Hari Perjalanan ke Afghanistan
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Yesterday morning I arrived in Kabul. Return ticket, I do not how long I'll stay here I do not know. With the internet as if the order so that I would try to travel notes, and detailed report was prepared when I go back to Moscow. The first day went well. It is very hot, dusty and dirty. Today I plan to go out of town to the peasants, and yesterday held fully in Kabul.
01. Direct flights from Moscow to Kabul Ariana airline serves. It is famous because of its history, its planes never took off as scheduled. Was no exception and our flight, he stayed for 2 hours. Planes old, but you can sleep than I do. Woke up on the approach to Kabul.
02. At the airport, nothing interesting. A lot of military equipment and aircraft, helicopters, almost all - ours! Passport control is quick, the guard did not even look at me, put a stamp on the visa and all. Immediately after passing the control to execute a registration. For this very desirable to have 2 photos. If the photos do not have to execute the registration in the city and lose time.
03. I go out in a completely empty arrival hall, there is no taxi, no greeters. It turns out that the airport no one is allowed. Passengers are taken to the airport by bus. There, behind barbed wire in the dust of people are sitting.
04. I was met by a driver. We go to the hotel. On the way we visit a local buy Simcoe. The seller promises reasonable GPRS-Internet, but it turns out that it is not so easy to customize. Makes this statement, the activation during the day. As can be seen on display here are selling iPhone;)
05. First impression - one big jail of Kabul, or fortress, as you wish. I did not like at all). Along the streets there are huge concrete fences, barbed wire emplacements everywhere, sandbags and soldiers. A lot of people with guns, all in different forms. Second impression - the dirt. In Kabul, very dirty.
06. Proceeds through Kabul river of the same name. She is also the main city gutter. People throw out all the garbage in the river, the water in it than just muddy, it is absolutely black as ink. Smells otvatitelnye, but quickly get used to, but get used to the flies is more complicated.
07. Even more difficult to get used to the piles of shit and rotting garbage beneath their feet.
08. In the photo quay Kabul River. When I took this shot, I thought that people are praying - it was just the evening prayer. It turned out that they are just crap. Well, how could you? ;)
09. Kabul is a tributary of the Indus. The length of 460 km.
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11. The town itself looks like.
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13. A street barber.
14. Old Town is almost completely destroyed by years of war, but something where you can find traces of ancient buildings.
15. As expected from the eastern city - Kabul a big market. Traffic on the streets difficult. No lights, no one observes the rules on the roads a mess.
16. Stopped at the bird market.
17. They found an excellent restaurant with a samovar.
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19. At first glance it may seem that this is a dirty eatery. In fact - it is a decent cafe, I'm sorry Wai-fi there.
20. But there is a reference book, in which the owner has asked to leave a few lines.
21. Bird market is very colorful, you can easily spend a few hours.
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23. See what caught this interesting and beautiful people!
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25. Sold mainly parrots and pigeons.
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28. Chicken is cut right in front of the client.
29. In order not to attract attention to themselves, bought on the market the local costume. Unfortunately, I do not know what it's called. Photo yesterday lecturing at Twitter .
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35. This is not a dump, is the point of waste sorting. They are everywhere. Plastic, paper, metal, sort of package. Plastic bottles are sold in Pakistan for processing. Over 7 kg bottles give 30 cents.
36. Scavengers here and live with their families.
37. A horse is sleeping peacefully, but I woke up. The horse is from 700 to 2000 dollars.
38. Back in Kabul, a lot of drug addicts. They're going under bridges, on rubbish dumps and in war-torn buildings. Heroin use on the street, no one cares to these people. 5% of the population of Afghanistan is using hard drugs. In the picture one of the points here at any time of day and night full of drug addicts. Over the last 10 years the number of addicts has increased greatly.
39. The smell disgusting, everything happens on heaps of garbage and waste, which folds into a river. A drug addict prepares a dose. Drugs are mainly consumed hazariytsy, descendants of Genghis Khan. They are Shiites, go to work in Iran, where a relatively good living.
40. Here they sell heroin, he is cheap and readily available to everyone. There are no prohibitions against the sale and use there. Inject on the streets. At a dose of earning petty theft and begging.
41. 5 minutes after we started shooting I noticed. Drug addicts have been aggressive. First landed on one, then very quickly a crowd gathered. I had to run. Kind people helped to get to the road and advised safer point for filming.
42. Then they were told that photographers here do not favor, 2 weeks ago beaten two German journalists who wanted to make a report about drug addicts.
43. River;)
44. Women wear head scarves blue, very nice.
45. Throughout the city there is a network of ditches, which eventually flow into the main river. Water supply and sanitation in Kabul, almost none. Water obtained from wells. Drains you see in the picture.
46. A typical urban landscape. Very dusty. Many are medical dressings, some wrapped in a scarf to avoid breathing dust.
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48. Gay Pride Parade;)
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50. Americans are blamed for something. that do not do anything. "They built their own bases, and sit there all! And for the people of that?" In general, anything other than their base the Americans have not built and did not. But the package of humanitarian assistance to good use as a building material.
51. Today I'm going in the direction of Jalalabad and the Bagram military base. If this works out, rent a poppy fields and production. |
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Travel in Afghanistan continues. Most of the second day I spent on the road, so the material is not very much. The main goal yesterday was to get to a military base in Bagram, and visit the market of ammunition and equipment stolen from the warehouses of the American army. On our way we stopped at the school, saw a brick factory and a cemetery of Soviet military equipment.
01. Early in the morning went to meet a dawn. Since Kabul is surrounded by mountains, the sun appears there after about 30 minutes after sunrise.
02. The main goal yesterday was the Bagram military base near there should be a market for stolen ammunition. On the road dropped into a local school. About her I will have a separate post. And while I can say that the schools are quite similar to ours. There are no estimates, but there are special people with sticks to beat children.
03. The school director during the Soviet occupation, as many Afghans, he fought on the side of the Mujahideen. For him the present, the U.S. occupation is the second. It belongs to the new occupants negatively, he said Afghans could have long to knock the Americans out of the country, as at one time drove the Russian. The reason that foreign troops are still not broken in the fact that people are too tired of war and do not want to go up against, as it was during his youth. The director has a negative attitude to both occupations, but believes that the Russian was still better. He does not claim that the Russian are good and bad Americans. No, the Russian invaders were and he hated them, but they seemed to him more human, friendly, courageous and honest.
Russian also conducted operations and bombed the village, but people have warned that the planned operation and women elderly and children were allowed to leave the area for her. Russian did not kill zhnschin and children, as do Americans. About the divergent views of Americans. On the one hand, he believes that the U.S. military is very proud, they do not respect anybody, humiliate people and no respect for tradition. On the other hand, he said, Americans are afraid of even their own shadows, they do not go out of their bases and, by and large, only control them.
In the end the director said that the Russian was killed about 1.5 million Afghans and it would be nice to reflect on, to pay compensation for these losses.
04. Kids.
05. Special person who goes to class and beat with a stick of children. Especially a lot of work with him in the end of each change. Without a stick kids just do not go to classes.
06. About the school will be a single large office.
07. But the main goal yesterday was Barga. According to a credible source right next to the Bagram base has long flourished trade ammunition and equipment stolen from the warehouses of the American army. Do not trust these data bases was not, after all, the man himself was there and described the purchase details. Unfortunately, the information was outdated. Trade began to press for a long time, but lately the market is fully dispersed. All because of the Taliban, who bought the American form here and made it an attack on the base of the international coalition and local police. Trade covered the entire country.
Hoping that at least something should be preserved, we arrived at the place. Sellers in contact refused to go, were extremely reticent. How then told my driver, they were going to beat our expedition. I was an American, which trains the next raid. As recently as two weeks ago, Americans have been on the market said shops selling stolen goods, returned with police and seized all they could.
08. In Bagram, do absolutely nothing. Dusty, hot, and some military bases. Fences and the strengthening of doing so such grids filled with sand. In the photo shows a boy, what happens if thrown into a fortress grenade.
09. The dust and heat, they are everywhere, yet very strong hot wind. It's like before you put a bowl of road dust and dryer included.
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11. Around Bagram are many brick factories.
12. In large oven baked bricks.
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14. The plant employs a lot of children. There is very little, 5-6 years. Where to watch human rights organizations?
15. But these animals can be found in the fields;)
16. During the war years, Soviet tanks abandoned on roadsides have become a symbol of the country. Recently, however, found an abandoned warehouse technology is becoming increasingly difficult. Local residents said that the "yes-and-a-while, is full of such places," but soon admitted that it was full of what is now possible to find a cemetery of Soviet technology know not all. Quite by accident managed to find one of these stores. Driving along the road to Jalalabad one can see remnants of what once was a military technology. Location is near the military base and it's bad. Military throughout the world differ suspicion and Afghanistan is no exception. Retrieved on himself, the enemy does not come close to the abandoned tanks. Is on its way to the base I was arrested and carried to the base commander. The meeting did not initially otlichalalas warmth.
"Russian? A-ah, yes we will beat the Russian in a well-80" - and the colonel began to reminisce about his youth madzhahedskoy. He fought and was a commander in the army of Ahmad Shah Massoud. He also nepryaminul pay tribute to Russian soldiers. At first the situation seemed tense, but gradually relaxed. Memories indulged in a major, which proved to be fought on the government side. Soon appeared on the table tea and sweets, and by the end of a conversation the colonel invited this evening to visit him for dinner. "You're so sorry," - said goodbye to the Colonel - "I want my people have reported that what the" Uzbek Taliban 'goes around the base, so you and invited to interview. Of course go take pictures of these tanks as you want! "
17. About This cemetery will be a separate post.
18. On the roads of permanent checkpoints. Driver's something to ask, but I do not understand. They say, you need to get permission to film in a sort of ministry, but I do not know what to do and why you need this permission, no one asks.
19. And here's what a Kabul, once green and clean city transformed into a prison-fortress. Why make such a huge fences?
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22. For the Land Cruiser goes unmarked car with a guard. If you have money, you can quite legally collect and equip your own army.
Today I leave Kabul and headed north to Mazar-i-Sharif. The road there goes through the pass and takes about 10 hours. |
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Yesterday the whole day spent on the road, traveling north to Mazar-i-Sharif, the fourth largest city in Afghanistan. The road is very complicated and goes through the Salang Pass and takes 8 hours. On the road met the American military, they have struck the wheel and the column stopped. Unfortunately, they were not allowed to shoot, and generally have not been configured for the friendship.
01. On the morning discharged from the hotel and went to watch Kabul. I bought some postcards with old photographs to prepare a series of comparative photographs of Kabul.
02. Shop hides.
03. Old photographer. On his box, he does a pretty passable pictures, sorry have to wait the result.
04. And this is a local imitation on RedBul.
05. We left the city, began to look for a taxi in Mazar-i-Sharif. Go to it about 400 miles, but the road goes through the pass and takes at least 8 hours. The taxi driver agreed to take over $ 105. Some guy with a gun walked and drove all the way, after a few minutes on it will drive the government's motorcade.
06. Along the road from the grave green flags, as I said, here are buried soldiers of martyrs.
07. Here the mountains are good, not so hot at the bottom.
08. The traffic is very busy, hundreds of trucks weaved through the narrow roads.
09. We talked with our driver. His name is Mohamed Ahous, his exact age, he does not remember about 65-70 years. By the age of Mohammed remembers the Soviet occupation and can compare the two occupying regime, which he worked half-way in between smoking cannabis. Comparing Russian and American, he stands on the Russian side, and claims that they were good fighters, and 10 years of Russian occupation of Afghanistan gave incomparably more than the same 10 years of occupation the U.S.. Mohamed poses the example of a system of employment, which was used by Russian. The work was for everyone. There were a lot of jobs, and even a man of his age he could find work. Now he is no use to anyone. Americans almost never hire local and if you hire young people.
With this system creates a lot of Russian, said he drove Salang Tunnel. This is a good example of what made the Russian. At the same time, the Americans have not done any project of this scale and can not even fix the tunnel. According to Mohamed, if he do not tunnel collapse in a couple of years, but nobody cares about it.
Comparing the occupation army, he believes that Russian soldiers were much better fighters. Not having all that equipment, which are the Americans, Russian maintained order in the cities, rather than holed up in bases. Now the country's troops are from forty countries, but they can not even provide security in Kabul. In Russian drones was not and was not a serious technological advantage over the mujahedeen, and the whole country was against them, but the Russian resisted. He knows how hard it was, under what conditions they had to fight and if only for a Russian deserve much more respect.
10. Trucks leisurely overtake each other. If in a car the trip takes 8 hours, truck rides for two days.
11. Sometimes the trucks create traffic jams. Between them try to maneuver cars.
12. Kamaz)
13. Salang - a strategic mountain pass in Afghanistan in the Hindu Kush, which connects the northern and central part of the country.
14. The entrance to the Salang tunnel.
15. Soviet specialists in the area of ​​the pass was laid tunnel 2.7 km long.
16. During the Afghan war in the tunnel there were two cases of mass death of Soviet soldiers. February 23, 1980 in a car accident the Soviet convoy stopped and 16 soldiers choked by exhaust fumes. Another even more ambitious tragedy happened on 3 November 1982, when as a result of arising out of the tunnel tube in the tunnel killed more than 176 people.
17. During the civil war between the Northern Alliance and Taliban Salang was a natural barrier, and in 1997 the tunnel was blown up by Dostum's orders to prevent the promotion of the Taliban in the north. In 2002, after reunification the tunnel was reopened. Now the state of the tunnel lamentable. Asphalt it is almost gone. Most of the roads destroyed, there is no light inside is very dusty and can not see anything. Toward the end there is a broken asphalt, which watered to make it less dust.
18. In addition to the main tunnel on the way there's such galleries.
19. They are constantly going to jams, a lot of dust.
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21. That looks like this road to the north.
22. In one of the tunnels, we found a mass brawl drivers who did not share the road.
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25. After the pass the drivers stop to wash their cars.
26. And yourself.
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27. And also a little snack.
28. And pray.
29. On the way to find the column of Americans.
30. The column is quite large, mostly construction equipment.
31. It's very interesting they were going. Periodically, the column stopped and the partitions off the whole way, creating a large traffic jam. As explained by our guide, made it to the terrorists was not possible to drive up close to them.
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33. The Americans have stopped, they struck the wheel, and I went to them to get acquainted.
34. Unfortunately, they were not very friendly. Took me for a German, was asked what I'm doing here. I honestly admitted that the Russian tourist. The captain, with whom I spoke was very surprised and wished me luck. Categorically not allowed to shoot. I had to withdraw and use telephoto. Near the soldiers look very cool. All in some cameras, sensors, weapons, flashlights, etc., like robots.
35. Local residents are advised to stay away from the American colonies, very often they are attacking.
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38. Peasants harvest.
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45. Throughout the remnants of military hardware. Russian is not love, because when left left the mountains of his technique. After the withdrawal of our troops have used this technique, the Taliban against the civilian population. Now in different cities of Afghanistan is a huge dump of the old Soviet technology, and it is in good condition.
46. Stopped by for a visit to the Taliban.
47. After the Americans came here, the traffic in heroin in Russia increased by 2 times.
48. This boy 8 years old, he pride of the family. In his heart he knows 8 2 chapters from the Koran! "This growing mujahid" - boasts a father.
49. This is a standard checkpoint. It is sometimes under fire. Recently the situation has deteriorated in the area. Once the most quiet and peaceful corner of Afghanistan becomes a place of fighting the Taliban invaders. Americans are restoring order in the south, and many Taliban are moving closer to the north to Tajikistan and Uzbekistan. 3 weeks ago they blew up a bridge, a month ago cut off his head to some Australians, sometimes kidnapped foreign workers.
50. Over military bases and raised here, such airships, they installed cameras to monitor the situation with the height around the base.
51. By the way, the area through which we drove, very nice. The roads fill the field, making terraces and cultivated rice. Very unusual landscape in Afghanistan. I asked him to stop to make a couple of shots, but the driver refused to stop here. If the Taliban would see that he picked up the Europeans, it can shoot. Goes to everyone who has to deal with NATO, the UN and just white people. The Taliban does not understand, who helps our drivers to tourists or the military.
52. Checkpoints are located in each of 3-5 km. At night they close, the soldiers are hiding in bunkers and the road is not controlled by anyone.
53. The closer we approached the Mazar-e-Sharif, the hotter the air became. Despite the night outside was about 35 degrees. As it turned out - this is pretty cool for this place, the day temperature rises to nearly 50.
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55. at some point, the road had tired of our driver and he calmly took out his pocket from the tiles of hashish the size of a small piece of chocolate. Also, calmly, he began to crumble it over his clothes, then took a cigarette and confident movements poured out her whole tobacco in the ashtray, falling asleep in her pieces of hashish and lit it. All this happened at a speed of 120 km per hour.
In Mazar-e Sharif, we arrived late at night. Long rode along the dusty road. The driver could not find the way, ask the locals where to find the "best hotel in town." The best hotel was a three-story house surrounded by a high fence topped with barbed wire and coated with sand bags. Around the house were watching people with guns. Behind the fence on the porch smoking pilots and mechanics from Tyumen, they work here at the UN. |
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In Mazar-e Sharif suddenly ended civilization. The best hotel was a three-story house where the rooms is an old furniture, very hot, air conditioners do not work nearly as well for a shower the whole floor. When the landlord asked for their "palace" of $ 120 per room. There is no choice, had to stay. All day yesterday I spent in the city - saw the market, dumping, and the main attraction - the Blue Mosque.
01. The hotel met the Russian guys. They are under contract to the UN, fly and maintain helicopters. Their trip here last 4 months. Almost all of the time they spend in the hotel - out of the gate they were forbidden, dangerous. In the month of guys get 150 000 rubles. They hotel for some reason, liked more than me. "We've lived here, in our room at night 35, air conditioner did not work. Yesterday was repaired, is normally 29. And so it is for the rest: normal beds, food, cook, wash clothes, the Internet is."
02. As for the heat guys right here deytvitelno terrible conditions. Daytime temperatures approaching 50, if you open the car window, as if pour hot dryer, if the window is closed, you can simply suffocate. Cars with air conditioning is rare. I woke up early in the morning to go to market. The driver was late, and I went for a walk around the hotel.
03. This reception desk;). As I wrote, do not favor foreigners here, so all the places where white people live, are well guarded.
04. At 6 am the children play soccer. In the morning the street was a fog, which on closer inspection turned out to be a small dust storm.
05. The hotel is better.
06. Security.
07. The market is very colorful, just the Middle Ages. Here you can take historical films. Central sewage system in town, the streets are sewers, in which all the waste is poured and cast into the trash. The stench is terrible.
08. In the market selling mainly food. About him I do a separate post.
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14. After the market I went to the city dump. It is a huge, smelly and very beautiful! Look, what beautiful caves in the slopes! Come on, let's see who lives there?
15. And live in these burrows addicts
16. Permanently only on this landfill is located about 100 drug addicts. Here they use heroin. In contrast to Kabul junkies, these proved to be very friendly with them was a little chat.
17. Dose of heroin in Afghanistan is worth only $ 2, as well as a jar or a large RedBula ripe watermelon. $ 2,000 on the market can easily buy a kilogram of heroin. By the way, here taken to smoke heroin rather than crack. It is heated on foil and inhaled through a straw.
18. "Zdravsvuyte!" - Unexpectedly greeted us one of the addicts. Masi Afghan heroin users over 20 years. When the Taliban came to power, his family fled from Afghanistan. First, in Uzbekistan, and then to Moscow. Masi somehow managed to go to MSU, but there is not studied for a long time - in the 90's Germany conducted a program of repatriation of Germans living in the former Soviet Union. Parents Masi found a way to convince the authorities that they, too, to some extent, the Germans and Germany and emigrated.
The family settled in the new location. Masi gradually taught German, but the circle of friends, mostly confined to natives of the Union. One of them, an Uzbek, Masi hoisted on heroin. After a few drives to the police, it emerged that he is not in the country quite legally and it was sent home - in Afghanistan. The family, however, remained in Germany. For about 5 years Masi sits in Afghanistan without a job and few prospects to get it. At one point he almost took a job in the service of NATO escort. For the sake of this work, he gave up heroin and stayed long enough. So long that even the medical tests conducted by the NATO medical profession have not figured out that he a drug addict. Unfortunately, the last stage of design work, his fingerprints were sent to Germany. At this point, and it turned out that he was repeatedly arrested for drugs. Masi dumped from his job about 2 months ago, and since he lives in a cave on a garbage heap, and his only source of income - that's about 200 euros per month sent parents.
19. This guy just used the, trying to stay on his feet, but they did not listen.
20. These are the stinking gutters run along all streets.
21. Special people are sometimes purified. Take a look. how much rubbish got this man on one corner. The water is completely black and the consistency is similar to sunflower oil.
22. In some places the water is very dirty, bathe kids there!
23. Now the city spread cholera and typhoid.
24. Women.
25. Hero.
26. On the street selling porn.
27. This breakdown of stolen phones.
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28. And here you can saw off a piece of ice.
29. My wife asked me to take home carpets. He walked to the shops, the local wool carpets are from 100 to 500 dollars. Was about to buy, as it turned out one big problem - there is no ATM in town! More precisely, there are two, but they do not work! As I explained to the workers ATMs can be found only in Kabul, and then only with difficulty. Today, try to find a bank and cashed some money, because then I'm going to have a great wilderness.
30. In Mazar-i-Sharif, many people speak in Russian, proximity affects the border with Uzbekistan. Greetings from the Motherland - BERIOZKA shop.
Friday in the Muslim world output. On the outskirts of Mazar-i-Sharif is surrounded by three fences of an amusement park. In the evening there was a lot of people get together and I decided to go shoot there. At the entrance it became clear that to get inside is not so easy. Entrance to the park was just for families. After much persuasion I was allowed to go there for 10 minutes, but the camera picked up. In the park, I realized why I refused to let the guards - many of the women took off their cloaks and go with open faces! Made a few shots on your phone. At the sight of me in a panic women were hiding, and waved their hands were busy. I decided not to embarrass them, rode the carousel and went back to the mosque. Notice how in Afghanistan for the safety of lawn:
31. The main attraction of Mazar-i-Sharif is the Blue Mosque. According to local legend it is - the tomb of the Caliph Ali, whose body was stolen kidnappers. For this reason, Mazar-i-Sharif is a place of worship, especially the Shiites. This tomb of the Caliph Ali is located in Najaf in Iraq, however, additional shrines as places of worship - a phenomenon often in the Afghan and Tajik religious practice. According to some historians, this place was the tomb of Zoroaster.
32. There's even a little clean.
33. And there are doves.
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37. In the mosque itself was not allowed.
38. In northern Afghanistan the Taliban is small, they strongly stand out from the crowd.
39. Look, there are evil-Taliban thugs.
40. And this is - kind Uzbek. Very easy to distinguish. Talib looks at you like a piece of meat in the store.
41. Women's photograph is strictly prohibited. It is not clear what could be the problem, given that they go in their cloaks and face is still not clear.
42. Mosque.
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44. Evening Prayer.
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46. The Soviet soldier-liberator abandoned the Afghans, "glasses" for the traffic police.
47. In Afghanistan, live a very hospitable people. You do not need any special effort to be invited to visit. In Mazar-e Sharif, invited me to her house is a big boss - the head of the Department of Drug Balkh province. Very nice hospitable people. Sam came to pick us up from the guesthouse where I stayed, and took her to his house with a large garden. The difference of cultures is not just allowed me to understand that the guest room - brick barn with the laid carpet flooring and lush curtains - it is very secured housing rights ... but here is cool, there are fan and air conditioner! In a city where 35 in the shade - the norm, the coolness in the room is really a luxury. Chief Police offered to be at home, and police identified the Jeep with a guard, so I could quietly watch it a beautiful city. In the evening, gave a big dinner party.
48. Came to his friends, and long asked absurd questions. On the whole evening was great! Pilaf would be very tasty, fresh vegetables, and the best apricots I try not necessary. However, the outcome of the evening was a strange one. How then told my guide, the guests think I'm a Russian spy. They have long tried to understand who I work with. As a result, meeting and did not understand how you can come to Afghanistan to take some pictures just!
49. Unfortunately, by the end of the day was over and civilization. In the best room owner was nothing but a carpet and fan, but it's still half woes. At night the house began to insect attack. Thousands of small ants, flies, beetles crawling in the nose, hair, crawling over the body and not allowed to sleep. As I have said, had to sleep on the floor makes it easier for small reptiles. Soon lost electricity, the fan is switched off and the room became absolutely unbearable. I took a bag of dirty laundry, which is adapted as a pillow, and went to sleep on the street.
Now I eat breakfast and go to Faizabad. On the road, there are dangerous areas, so you need to reach before nightfall.
UPD: Reaching Faizabad, all is well, just no internet normal. Tomorrow will try to lay out a new report. |
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The fifth day turned out not interesting. The whole day was spent on the road, I drove east to Faizabad, where I waited for the poppy fields. The situation on the road has deteriorated in recent days, a suicide bomber blew up yesterday, so the driver refused to stop, and almost all the way we passed without stopping. The road itself is not very interesting, but military bases and checkpoints entertained me.
01. As I said, yesterday ended a terrible night in a barn with insects. Here's my room for 3 people.
02. To escape the flies and beetles zlah had to go to sleep on the street. Here in this beautiful place and I spent the night. It is worth noting that this was a very good night for the first time for the whole trip, I slept well in the fresh air. At 4 am I was awakened by some people who started to walk around my "bed".
03. Quick breakfast bread with tea and went to buy a carpet. As I've written, ATM in Mazar-e Sharif was not there. I had to look for the bank. They agreed to redeem the card required amount, at the same time retained a 5% commission.
04. The whole day I spent on the road, so fast, probably not very interesting. The situation on the road from Mazar-i-Sharif, Faizabad to turbulent. Just yesterday, a suicide bomber exploded near a mosque, and the thugs hooligans. Strongly recommended that the driver to stop, saying that they should not attract attention because it can not get there;). I had to shoot through a dirty car window. For example, some people are looking for something.
05. Landscapes are bleak. almost all the way outside the wilderness.
06. The only entertainment - photography checkpoints. They are located every few kilometers. To dangerous parts of the fortress standing every 500 meters, also occupied all the heights.
07. The situation is very strange. On the one hand, all very calmly. On the other, where n look, be sure to come across people with guns who are doing something. And if you are a column of foreign troops, then feel at a military parade.
08. Typical landscape.
09. The military are doing something ...
10. In the villages, which also can not stop, go to the police.
11. Checkpoint Afghan army. Nearly every post on the road makes an artificial obstacle to drivers to slow down the speed. Usually just put the caterpillar from the tank.
12. Suddenly, the meeting appeared a column of German technology. Do not have time to focus properly)
13. Avganskie military always ride on pickup trucks. sitting in the back by armed men.
14. As I said, over military bases here are flying balloons with cameras to monitor the situation around the base.
15. But a slice of the American base. It is evident that they have air conditioning - a luxury in the Afghan outback. Judging by the satellite dish, they also have Internet access.
16. Normally checkpoints are collected here from such nets filled with sand. Of them can build a whole castle!
17. caught in the hills here are masterpieces.
18. At some stations stop, forcing open the trunk and check the documents. React to the camera is not very good.
19. Road.
20. another castle. I have them on nasnimali whole book;)
21. Children are tearing some grass.
22. Do not quite understand what it is. The driver allowed to run out of the car for a couple of minutes and do some training. Then long worried that we might see and steal.
23.
24. Look at the cute kids!
25.
26.
27. A afgatsev fashion - for use on glass loboe pictures of national heroes. Some glue directly posters A2 size!
28. We stopped at a roadside eatery. This is my lunch.
29.
30. Along the way a lot of rusty machinery.
31. All the villages look like this.
32.
33.
34.
35. The remains of the tank.
36. In the evening came to Fayzabat! The city is very beautiful and interesting. I travel with a guide LonelyPlanet on Afghanistan from 2007. In it I found a hotel. It was written in the recommendations, "the best hotel Faizabad. It is located directly across the river in a picturesque place. If you find a hotel with the best views, be sure to let us know!" The hotel is really located on a river. When I approached him, he decided that he had abandoned. Glasses were dirty, the walls have evolved through the trees, the building itself was in poor condition. It turned out that it works. Inside, though, he looked more like a hostel illegal migrant workers. The stench is terrible, the rooms for 10 people live, do not change clothes, cook directly in the "rooms". Toilet one-on-the entire building. A room in this corner of paradise cost only $ 65. I went to look for another place to sleep. Soon, the driver took me to the guesthouse. He was much more comfortable "best hotel" of the city. $ 50 was a bed, fan and shower. It later emerged that the city has no electricity. The owner of my guesthouse include a generator only 5 hours a day.
37. The view from the window.
38. You have it. In general, rural Afghanistan is totally different from Kabul and other major cities. Here no one guarding the hotel, there are no huge fences. Not here, restaurants, cafes, internet, ATMs, shops, there is nothing to what we used to, and it's great! Life here has stopped in the middle ages, nothing has changed. People treated with a field hand, there are no tractors and combines. There are no factories, no electricity. But more on that in the following positions.
The next day I went to remove the poppy fields, but more on that tomorrow! |
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My trip to Afghanistan comes to an end. I've got to Moscow tomorrow and lay out a report on the last day in Afghanistan. Today I'll show you what grows around the beautiful town of Faizabad, and as a good kill.
01. So, the last day I drove to Faizabad and settled in a beautiful guesthouse with no amenities. In the morning went to explore the neighborhood. The city is located on the right bank of the river Kokcha. Faizabad historically insulated because of the lack of paved roads.
02. Since no roads, people move around on donkeys.
03.
04.Vokrug of many fields, grow wheat, barley, rice, and poppy.
05. Afghanistan has never been especially developed agriculture. In the harsh climatic conditions, the shortage of land, farmers could barely feed themselves. The Soviet Union tried to develop some kind of industry, but with the departure of our troops Afghanistan quickly rolled back to its status as an agricultural country.
06. For all the time, I never noticed any in the fields of technology! All work on the fields were processed manually. Sometimes the use of animals, but no tractors and combines.
07. Wheat is carefully cut with sickles.
08.
09. The entire process of production of flour, also without the use of technology. The peasants do everything yourself.
10. But one of the mountain villages. We met with the headman of the village. He said that the presence of foreigners is not very desirable. Of course, if I want tea, it will bring me into his car, but about any shooting in the village and can be no question. Found out the reason for the dislike of foreigners. Once the Germans arrived in the village and promised to build a new irrigation system, in exchange for the destruction of poppy fields. The peasants agreed. And recently, the village was ambushed and fired on a German convoy. It is common for Afghanistan. And what do you think? These "pagan Germans," and took the poor nayabednichali mujahideen governor. The governor came to the village and slapped on the ass of Jihad members, explained that the Germans were friends, and do not necessarily hold on them and blow them up an ambush technique. The village is very offended by the Germans for this, because snitch is not good. But the Germans did not stop, they also insulted and abandoned their plans to build an irrigation system! Such cheating farmers simply could not, and now not only German, but any European to have the worst enemy. That's the story. The richest man in the village owns the entire 4th goats, and in case of crop failure is no stock of food there. "We all just die of starvation and nobody thinks of us" - lamented the head of the village.
11. Remain without danger to the crop this climate really is extremely high. The terrain is mountainous, fertile land is scarce, and droughts occur more often. At the same time, opium poppy is resistant to harsh climatic conditions, the probability of crop failure is very small, and this production brings much more profit. According to Mr. Naver, for the future harvest poppy readily lend local financial institutions, and of course the peasants were only too happy to grow poppy because it is a sure crop, and enough money to feed their families.
Especially because they themselves do not use drugs. According to Hoxha Naver, in his village there is no drug addicts. In his village living God-fearing people, and drugs are "haram" - sin. That is the Afghan farmer makes no difference to grow potatoes or opium - which is more profitable and grow.
12. Mountains.
13. Even in the remote mountains are a fortress.
14.
15. And then, on the horizon Belarus tractor! Guess who was driving a tractor? No, not Peter Pig. The tractor was driving a Tajik and a policeman with a big gun.
16. Following a few pickup trucks rushed to the police.
17. Tra-ta-ta-ta-ta! On the way to one of the fun politseskih. We stopped and went to get acquainted. Of course, the police do not expect to see in the mountains of Russian tourists. They asked where I was going.
- Going to shoot poppy fields.
- Excellent! And we have an operation to destroy your fields!
- And can you go?
- Of course! Do not lag behind!
My driver started to complain that the road over the pass to the fields is very bad, and it would be necessary to increase the rate of two times. I agreed with him 150 dollars. We agreed on 200, drove off.
18. We arrived at the place. Around the horizon large poppy plantations. Colors are in the middle of kids and a plaintive cry.
19. Grow poppies - the simplest and easiest way to make money. Poppy field brings in ten times more than wheat. Of course, kids are upset that they have now run 10 times.
20. Very often during these operations, to attacks on police officers. Local residents are prepared for anything, but would not lose a lucrative business. Often dominate the field.
21. More information about the work polii I write in a separate post.
22. Up to 80 90-poppy production was negligible, but we grew incredibly Taliban, making the country one of the largest producers of heroin, as difficult to engage in "jihad" without external support, relying solely on the under-developed agriculture. The country has two main areas where poppy is grown - is almost the entire South (Helmand, Kandahar, etc.) and some in the north of Afghanistan Badakhshan Province.
23. One of the soldiers was a romantic. Instead of destroying poppy crops he began to collect bouquets.
24. Heat is under 40, work hard. To somehow brighten up your hard work, police smeared cigarette poppy seed milk. I do not know what it gives, but the sight of them after that strange.
25. From the air operation support helicopters.
26.
27. Part of the police conducting an operation in parallel and retains all the plantation owners.
28. In general, about all of this will LATEST separate post for several weeks.
29. Returned to the city. Almost all the buildings around Afghanistan is a plate with a description of who built it. Basically help rebuild Afghanistan, Americans, Germans, Japanese, Turkish.
30. The city has two bazaars, where they still sell wool, woolen clothing, salt, sugar, tea, and indigo.
31.
32. In the bushes rusting Soviet technology.
33.
34. Weather deteriorated slightly, the sun is out and became very good.
35.
36. See what a beautiful girl!
37.
38.
39. The city has the only gas station.
40. Shop where they sell ice cream.
41. Fan, I once again went for watermelon. Watermelons are worth about 7 rubles per kilo, they are very tasty and sweet. Instead of weights on the scales used stones.
42. While I paid for a watermelon, was approached by a Gopnik. Ego named Sasha, in broken Russian, he told his story. In the early nineties, his father, an Afghan, was brought from Russia for a wife. They lived here year 3, then, do not endure the Afghan girl of color ran back to Russia. Child to leave her, of course, was not allowed. Then again, Dad had disappeared, and Sasha was bomzhevat in Faizabad. Here's a funny story.
In this feature, I put the compression of images up to 60% instead of the usual 80%. As you money? The size is almost two times less than we have. |
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All the seventh day I was getting to Moscow. Initially wanted to fly through Kabul, but there was no convenient flights, and I went to the capital is too far away. I decided to go through Tajikistan. Afghanistan has three border crossings with Tajikistan. Two of them, if you look at the map, it seems that they are very close to Faizabad, where I was, and the third was nearly 300 km. In fact, it turned out that the shortest path is not always the fastest. Go near the village of Ishkashim results in Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region of Tajikistan - izvestnyyu terrain with its unusual, stunning scenery. However, when referring to a trip to Ishkashim drivers did not show enthusiasm. The way they say is monstrous and takes at least 8 hours. What is a terrible way I learned the previous day, during a trip to the area of ​​poppy plantations, to repeat this experience is not wanted. Another shift is in the Tajik city of Khorog. When it is mentioned, not all of them can understand where it is. The transition is not popular among the Afghans, again because of bad roads. At the same time, Faizabad and the closest to the transition, "Sher Khan Bandar," the city of Kunduz excellent road links, the quality of which many would envy the Russian railway.
From Faizabad to the border can be reached in just 3-4 hours, depending on the driver's bravery and your courage. Sher Khan Bandar was the main passage between Tajikistan and Afghanistan, not so long ago. Back in 2007, instead of a modern bridge that connects the river Pyanzh, went to the ferry and the traffic was low. However, according to my driver, the troops found a way through kaolitsii Sher Khan Bandar quite easy to supply troops. They helped build the bridge and extend to him an excellent road.
01. This is the interior of my guesthouse, where I spent the last two days.
02. And this is the best hotel in Faizabad looks from the street.
03. Almost all the way to the border I was asleep. In between going to bed now noticed this hilarious bus.
04. And such a tuk-tuki in Kunduz. Not another one Afghan city I have not seen the fat-the fat.
05. Afghan border passed quickly. People almost was not. At the beginning of all things inspected, and then I went to the passport control. The border guard asked me where my immigration card, which I had to get to the airport. I had completely forgotten about her. Remember, I am told that the airport makes registration, but this requires a picture. I have a photo with him was not, so no cards in the airport, I never got it. The border guard refused to let me by offering to return to Kabul and make the necessary document. While I was thinking, how much to give him a bribe, as well as ring up Afghan acquaintances, he relented and put the necessary stamp in the passport. From Afghanistan to the Tajik border, walk across the bridge bus. The fare to be paid $ 2.
06. Tajiks have had a big queue. The border guard handing out immigration cards. On the reverse side of printed advertising of Beeline. Later, it became clear that these cards are called the "beeline". "Where's your beeline" - the policeman asked me about the time of verification of documents in the city. I could not understand, but it turned out that the so-called migration card.
07. On the Tajik border, I got stuck for an hour. After a search of all things (except the backpack, which was behind him), I caught the doctor and asked to be vaccinated against polio! And vaccinations do everything, without exception, under compulsion. I had a long talk to him about the allergies and contraindications, after which he left behind. From the Tajik border are also bus. It costs $ 4 already, but I did not take the money the driver: "You're brother, I will not take the money brother!"
08. Immediately after the border took a taxi to Dushanbe. 220 km ride, the driver agreed to take $ 70, which is probably a lot. Gasoline costs about 38 rubles per liter. I slept the whole way.
09. Immediately went to the cashier for a ticket to the evening flight. Dushanbe-Moscow ticket worth $ 530. In the ticket office staff lazy scare Putin.
10. Before the plane was 2 hours, and I took a taxi. The city itself is very much, reminds VVC - Kicevo Soviet classic, generously diluted tasteless advertising and numerous barbecue and beer. In the photo the new LCD, the tallest building.
11. A lot of trees. Sorry for the Tajik authorities to demolish the historic center. A few years later from the capital Dushanbe Soviet REPUBLIC become a provincial Chinese town.
12. The city almost never took off, I relax a bit, but hope to come here again for the weekend.
13. From unusual in Tajikistan smoking in public places. This means that just go on the street and smoking can not. But you can drink Yagudin. This cattle-cocktails are inexplicable popularity among the local population and is considered the "elite swill."
14. That's it.
I think after 2 weeks I start to dig the Afghan photos and share thematic positions. |
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kat atas ada pix... scroll ke bawah..nampak x x x jer huhuhuh
semoga Afganistan akan bangkit semula menjadi sebuah negara yang berdaulat |
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aku igtkn abgsedapmalam yg pi sana....:@
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saper yang pegi nie???? reporter ke? |
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kesiannya.. kesan peperangan mcm nie la..  |
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kat sana pun ramai drug addict?... |
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such a great pictures...  |
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Alhamdulillah negara kita masih 'ok'... walaupun... |
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Sedihnya. jadi macam ni Afghanistan.. tapi orang2 nya masih bersemangat nak teruskan kehidupan. |
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Post time 30-6-2011 01:24 PM
变色卡
Author
